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Showing posts with label Food. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Food. Show all posts

Sunday, July 21, 2019

Observations-Fake Meat


There has been a deluge of fast food companies capitalizing on the development of vegetarian meat replacement products and offering fake meat products on their menus. They are doing this in response to the demand of those who have chosen the vegetarian diet and lifestyle.

The response has been quite good, people like the product. Comments like: it tastes just like a real hamburger; you really won’t miss the animal protein; it is so much healthier and yet it still gives me the satisfaction of eating meat.

If you miss meat so much, why don’t you just eat meat?

People change their diets to a vegetarian one for many reasons: religious, spiritual, health, and as a response to the environmental impact of meat production on the earth. I really have no beef  (😊)with that. It is their choice and they are much better than I for being able to live this way.
I do have an issue with why they are seeking to replace meat in all of its culinary glory: the taste, the unctuous mouth feel, the smell of animal fat charring, and the fibrous texture, by imitation.
I am an omnivore, you won’t see me turn down extra helpings of vegetables, but you also won’t see me replacing my meat consumption with faux meat. Even as I get older and I am cutting back on my meat consumption, I would rather consume more vegetables, fish, and chicken than consume something that came out of a test tube and tries to be a reasonable facsimile of meat. Mainly because a reasonable facsimile is not a reasonable facsimile.

The question has always puzzled me: why make something into something that nature had not intended in order to make you feel good about yourself? It seems every culture that has chosen to consume only vegetables have gone out of their way to create something meat-like yet is not meat. Tofu, seitan, tempeh, textured soy protein, jackfruits, beans, lentils, are amongst the many others have been used as meat substitutes, they have been successful to varying degrees but never completely successful. They tell me that the most recent attempts have been more successful.

It seems to me that those who have declared their intention to live as herbivores should hold on to the lofty standards of that lifestyle. There is a large amount of resolve and discipline in becoming and staying a vegetarian; it is indeed a large sacrifice and an intellectual commitment to the rules of whatever form of vegetarianism they claim. It feels like cheating, in my mind when you create substitutes for meat, you are saying: I don’t really want to give up all the gustatory pleasures of eating meat, I just want to not eat meat while I still can derive the same pleasure. It seems contradictory and bordering on the hypocritical.

It is my experience that Asian cultures have tastier vegetarian foods. The requirements of the various Asian religions have caused the Asian vegetarians to react the same way as the western vegetarian: create meat substitutes; even though the Asian vegetarian foods tastes much better and are seemingly more clever in how they disguise the fact that there is no meat in their recipes. Part of it is that the culinary traditions of the Asian cultures are not as meat centered as the western cultures. The amount of meat that are served in each dish is much less than that of a western dish: the proportions of meat to vegetable and starch in much smaller in the Asian culture than the western culture, so it was easier to disguise the lack of meat because there was less to disguise. Speaking for myself, I think the Asian cultures have also had more time to develop their clever ways of making a vegetarian dish - the western vegetarianism became in vogue only relatively recently. There have always been vegetarians in the western cultures, but they did not number in as large a proportion of the general population as vegetarians in Asia.

It is no wonder that the nouveau vegetarians are left hankering for meat replacements, they have much more to replace and their culinary techniques for vegetarian foods are lagging in evolution. But that still begs the question of: why even bother to do this in the first place.
Circling back to the original argument, if once one decides to become vegetarian, should they not be held to that standard of consumption, at least by their own conscience? Why is it that they allow themselves the right to declare as vegetarians and still cheat in order to sate their taste buds?
Believe me when I say that I am not claiming moral superiority because I would not be able to live a vegetarian lifestyle. I can live eating an omnivore diet that is heavily weighed towards vegetables, but I would not be able to give up meat completely. But at least I am honest about my foibles and lack of discipline and not cheat to pretend that I don’t miss meat.

I guess it is more of a moral and philosophical question than a culinary question. What does being vegetarian mean to a vegetarian?

Saturday, May 4, 2019

Book Review-Buttermilk Graffiti by Edward Lee


I became aware of Edward Lee as a contestant for the Top Chef show on Bravo, the Austin Texas edition. I identified with him because we are both of Asian descent, and we don’t see too many Asian folks on shows like Top Chef. In addition to that connection, I noticed he is from Louisville, a city I travel to quite often, at least twice if not three times a year. So, I kept track, hoping that he would open up his own restaurant, I wanted to taste what I saw.

Over time, I had eaten at three of his Louisville restaurants: 610 Magnolia, Milkwood, and Whiskey Dry, I enjoyed all of them and it made me a big fan of his culinary skills. When his first book: Smoke and Pickles came out, I was a bit more cautious, I was not a regular reader of cook books and I wasn’t about to start. I have read other books from famous chefs, Anthony Bourdain being one, but his books were different, they had a point of view and they were not all about the recipes.

It was with this mindset that I happened upon this second book of his while I was visiting my favorite bookstore in Louisville, Carmichael Books. After flipping through the book, I realized that there was much more to the man’s writing than that of a chef discoursing on cooking, taste, food, and the food culture. He was in fact, much like Anthony Bourdain than I had realized.  In addition, I figured that there is a certain amount of predestination involved since I was in a Louisville landmark thumbing through the book written by another Louisville landmark. So, I bought it.

This book is divided into sixteen chapters, each have a story or two to tell, some times they coalesce into a tidy narrative, mostly they don’t, and that is the beauty of Lee’s story telling: nothing is intentionally meant to be completely self-contained, everything is a bit messy, and that is its charm. He goes off and wanders these United States as someone who is not completely assimilated, someone who’s difference is written on his face. He goes into places where he is not completely welcomed, he is an outsider wherever he went. More to the point, he asks a lot of question, as a writer should, and he often invites suspicious scrutiny from those very people that he most wanted to have a conversation with. He does persevere, and he does have fascinating conversations, about the food of course, but also about his subjects lives here in America, about how they got here, what they think, how they feel about issues that are important to their daily lives. The chapters always end with his own interpretations of the recipes he speaks about in the body of the chapters, some are significantly different while others are tweaked, according to how he feels.

More important than the reportage of the stories is his own assessment of the stories, he speaks plainly and bluntly about what he experienced, there is always an elegiac feel to his prose. He conveys the sense of the immigrant experience both in terms of the fulfillment that comes from being satisfied with where they ended up yet also with a sense of sadness regarding the loss over the thing that defines the speaker’s past and culture. But, there always the description of the food, he is blunt and honest about the food he tastes, and he will call out a bad interpretation, but when he goes into the food, he is all at once evocative and descriptive. The only thing that he was not able to evoke is allow us to actually smell and taste the food, but he comes awfully close. He also does not insist on authenticity, because authenticity is not real to him, people will cook and eat differently as they evolve within this American stew, only the quality matters.

The stories are told as a main piece that brings us to social and cultural points, points that are made subtly but clearly. It gives us a sense of what the feelings are with the people telling Lee the stories but are not overpoweringly obtrusive.

I enjoyed the food writing, the travelogue, the stories, as well as the thoughtful reflections. It made me appreciate the breadth and depth of a meal, it could be just a satisfying meal, which is all that we ask, while it can also be a cross cultural exploration, if you converse, reflect, and question your experience.

Lee always went to the small, inconspicuous places in search of honest foods that reflects the cultures that are the most representative of the subject in each chapter, so it was with great excitement that I discovered that I had actually been to one of the places he focused on. Shapiro’s in Indianapolis is not small, nor is it inconspicuous, it is an icon in south Indianapolis. I happened to eat there while I was on my way home. It was a delicatessen in the finest sense of the word, and as I read Lee’s account of his visit, I could visualize the scene as I was there myself. I of course excitedly tweeted the picture of my meal at Shapiro’s to Lee, a reader lives for those little moments.

Finally, as he was winding down his book, he took us into his personal reflections about his life, his wife, his daughter, his Korean background and family. It is a very important point for me, it took a certain amount of courage to expose his thoughts, his fears, and his past history to the readers; and the humanity of what he had to say made the book that much more welcoming and honest. Going back to our shared Asian background, I felt his battles with the parental and cultural expectations. I was able to appreciate the frustrations and fears coming from the younger Edward Lee even though he rebelled against those expectations and took the road less traveled, while I took the well-trodden familiar path, only to be rebelling in my later years.  The last few chapters, in speaking of those challenges in his life as well as speaking about his adopted hometown of Louisville, was a very nice ending, it made the book journey more meaningful and the stories already told that much more appreciated.